This summer, I returned to Piemonte, one of my favorite wine regions in the world. It was amazing to see old friends again and to contemplate beautiful vineyards, which were preparing for the harvest.
I also visited a few producers during the week I spent there. One of the names I had in mind was Pio Cesare, whose wines I admire very much. Pio Cesare is one of the oldest producers in Alba, known for their truly exceptional wines, and being accepted for a private visit to their winery was pure delight.
Pio Cesare is one of the rare producers whose winery remains in the city center of Alba. They own several premium hillside vineyards in the region, a significant portion of which are in Barolo. When we rang the bell of the grandiose door of the winery, together with Semra Akkaya -my daughter and the producer of Juliette’in Kadehi podcast- we were warmly welcomed. Now, a visit becomes even more enjoyable when hosted by someone who makes a difference. In our case, that was Silvio Marocco, the Commercial Director of Pio Cesare. Silvio not only hosted us with elegance and generosity but also impressed us with his profound wine knowledge and exceptional story telling skills.
Pio Cesare indeed has a story worth telling! Like many producers in Italy, especially in Piemonte, it is a family story of several generations, heritage and passion. And you need to follow the names carefully here, as there are several “Pio”s and “Cesare”s!
Pio Cesare’s story begins in 1881 when the successful entrepreneur Cesare Pio started a boutique production in Barolo and Barbaresco. He soon became one of the leading names in Alba wine scene. When his son, Giuseppe Pio, took over the business at the beginning of the 20th century, he made Pio Cesare a benchmark brand for the wines of the region. Then, his only child, a daughter names Rosy Pio, continued the business with her husband Giuseppe Boffa, who left a successful engineering career to join the family business. The Boffas made Pio Cesare one of the most respected names in Italian wine. Years followed… Rosy and Giuseppe’s youngest son, Pio Boffa, carried on the family legacy as the fourth generation. Not only did he continue the business successfully, but he also became one of the most important ambassadors of the Langhe’s wines. With him, Pio Cesare became a highly regarded grower and producer. Today, the torch is in the capable hands of Federica Boffa, Pio Boffa’s daughter, and his nephew Cesare. Together with their cousin Augusto, they are shaping the future of the brand.
When we entered, we breathed the familiar and wonderful aromas of the winery. Silvio shows us the way through their winemaking equipment before leading us to the area where maturation and ageing take place. Knowing that much of what we saw would fill our glasses years from now, we let those wonderful wines sleep, becoming even more delicious. During our visit, we came across an old brick wall; Silvio explained that it was part of the original city wall of Alba, which remained within the winery as the town grew. A piece of history, standing there for centuries. Our final stop of the winery and cellar tour was a small room where hundreds of old bottles rested under a thick layer of dust. Silvio proudly picked a bottle of Barolo, the label read “1955”.
We then headed to the tasting room, surrounded by wonderful portraits of all the family members whose exceptional efforts made to Pio Cesare into the brand we know today. We began the tasting with their delicious 2022 Langhe Chardonnay, Piodilei - a wine I admire every time it touches my palate, with its unique style and flavour profile. Next came Fides, a Barbera d’Alba DOC Superiore 2021. Silvio explained each wine in vivid detail. His passion is reflected in the way he talks about every bottle, his words meet the flavours and aromas we savour along the way. We continued with their Barbaresco 2020 DOCG, followed by the Barolo 2020 DOCG and finished our tasting with three exquisite single-vineyard Barolos of Pio Cesare: Barolo Mosconi 2020 DOCG from a newly acquired vineyard in Monforte d’Alba, Ornato 2020 from Serralunga d’Alba and Ravera 2019 from Novello. Each of these Nebbiolo wines has a different story to tell, taking our palate to different places.
The wines we taste were elegant, rich and of the highest quality. We enjoyed an unforgettable tasting, crowned by exceptional hospitality.
If you visit Alba, Pio Cesare is must-see. And if you come across a Pio Cesare bottle on a wine list or on a shelf, seize the opportunity, you won’t regret it.
Grazie mille Silvio per la tua ospitalità e buona vendemmia a Pio Cesare!
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